Ginger can change a pot of soup before the first spoonful ever reaches the table. A few slices make broth taste cleaner. A spoonful of grated ginger warms lentils, chicken, coconut milk, and greens. Fried briefly in oil, it turns deep and savory. Stirred in at the end, it tastes bright and almost citrusy.

A good Chinese soup tastes full before it tastes salty. The broth has depth, the aroma hits first, and every spoonful has a clean balance of savory, sweet, sour, spicy, and fresh.